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Holiday celebrations often
spark culinary memories from our past.
For some it's the smell of stuffing and
roast turkey on Thanksgiving. Others respond
to the Glazed Ham or crown Roast that
dominates the Christmas table. And then
there are those who long for the Burgers,
Dogs, Beans, and Potato Salad that signify
the Beginning (Memorial Day), Middle (July
Fourth), and End (Labor Day) of each Glorious
Summer Season.
But for me, it's Easter
that holds some of my fondest memories,
food or otherwise. I'm hardly what you'd
call a practicing Catholic, but that somber
season holds some of my fondest memories-food
and otherwise. Part of this can definitely
be attributed to my mother's Lenten meals.
A staunch follower of the "no-meat-on-Friday"
rule, our end of the week dinners were
often a creative, culinary hodgepodge.
Fish
sticks were a common favorite, cropping
up more often then they had any right
to. Unfortunately, they didn't hold the
same mystique as attending the all-you-can-eat
Fish Fry at Howard Johnson's (see THG
#2), and they inevitably made me think
of the "hot" lunches served
by Mrs. Sarlo in our grade school cafeteria.
A more welcome site was the appearance
of the deep-dish tomato pie, usually reserved
for those Fridays when friends came over
for dinner. And, I'd be remiss if I failed
to mention my personal fave on the Lenten
menu-scrambled eggs, canned peas, and
Kraft Mac & Cheese.
Whenever I mention this
meal to friends, they incorrectly jump
to the conclusion that it's some bizarre
casserole. "Perhaps it's from a newspapers
food column, or the back of a box during
those 'meals in a minute' 70s," they
suggest. But no, I'm forced to explain,
it's just one of those memorable meals
that brings back a far simpler time.
But beyond creating a roll
call of my favorite Friday night dishes,
Easter always brings to mind two of my
favorite people in the entire world...Aunt
Jo and Uncle Emil.
Jo was my mother's older
sister, and they were separated early
on when the kids were placed in foster
homes. As one of the youngest of 13 (!),
Mom lost track of many of her older siblings,
never making contact with them until later
in life, if ever. After connecting with
a sister who lived in the next town from
us, Mom learned that her older sister
Josie lived just over the bridge in Bridesburg,
a blue-collar, ethnic suburb of Philadelphia
near the Armory. Upon meeting and exchanging
details of their lives, they discovered
that they were married on the same day,
and had purchased their dresses in the
exact same Philly bridal shop!
I'd be hard-pressed to accurately
depict Josie's cool essence on the printed
page. She lived in an era I never knew,
and that was definitely part of the charm.
She smoked, wore her hair in a beehive
far into the 1980s, gambled, owned racehorses,
had velvet paintings of conquistadors
in her living room, and wore heels and
Capri pants throughout the year. I'd never
met anyone like Aunt Jo, and still haven't.
She was beyond one of a kind, and I was
lucky enough to have her in my life until
I was in my early 20s.
On the other hand, I only
got ten years of exposure to Uncle Emil,
but those years spoke volumes about this
inimitable character. Short and balding,
Emil loved gambling, AP coffee, and Spanish
Bar (which you'll only know about if you're
from the Philly area, I presume). His
coffee-drinking antics remain legendary
in our family, and anyone who fills their
cup to the brim is said to be "pulling
an Emil." When this happened to him,
though, he'd spread his out arms out,
lower his head to cup level, and slurp
mouthfuls until he could carry his cup
to the table.
What
does all this have to do with Easter?
A couple things actually. First, some
of the earliest photos of yours truly
show me with Josie and Emil, decked out
in my ridiculous "bunny suit."
The ears and tail were detachable because
my Scottish grandmother wouldn't have
seen the comic value in this sort of mental
abuse. Second, Josie was a killer cook,
and impressed upon me an important entertaining
concept: always cook far more than people
can possibly eat. We'd often visit Josie
and Emil on Easter Sunday, and the spread
she'd whip up would be, um, immense. Fresh
ham, fresh pork, kielbasa, pierogies,
golumpkies, sauerkraut, and the list would
go on and on, filling her Bridesburg home
with sights and smells that had to be
experienced to be believed.
I often think about these
two people and what they meant in my life.
Sure, they were my godparents and aunt
and uncle. But more than that, they impressed
upon me an appreciation of things in life
and the people around me. And how the
gestures you make and acts you perform
leave a mark that never fades with time
or absence.
Happy Easter Aunt Jo &
Uncle Em...
In
the Next Origins: The Frugal
Gourmet Was My Culinary Savior!
[This article originally
appeared in THG
#3]
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